Cyprus gave us ten days of sunshine, sea, and shockingly large portion sizes – basically everything Denmark in October is not. Here’s how our slightly chaotic, very food‑driven, autumn escape played out, day by day.
Why Cyprus (and why in autumn)?
When you live in Denmark and it feels like you haven’t seen the sun in forever, you don’t ask for much – just 22°C, blue water, and the ability to feel your fingers. Cyprus in late October delivered warm days, mild evenings and zero “oh god, where’s my winter coat” panic.
Our non‑negotiables:
- Warm weather without summer crowds.
- A country new for both of us, but still in Schengen because visas are a hobby we did not sign up for.
- Enough activities we’d never tried before: scuba, gorges, turtles, hammams, the works.
- Cyprus basically said, “Here, have all of that, plus halloumi.”
Day 1 – Aarhus to Larnaca: The Longest Travel Day of Our Lives
We started with an overnight train from Aarhus to Copenhagen Airport, because nothing says “vacation” like arriving sleep‑deprived and feral. Breakfast at the airport lounge revived us just enough to pretend we were functioning adults.
Highlights:
- Tight 30‑minute transfer in Vienna: 10/10 adrenaline, do not recommend as a lifestyle.
- Landing in Larnaca absolutely starving while my husband dealt with the rental car, and I panic‑googled parking and dinner.
- One‑night crash stop at Edem Traditional House – cosy, walking distance to beach, bars and food, a.k.a. all the essentials.
Dinner at Museum All Day Bar & Restaurant:
Limited vegetarian options, but what we got was great. Salad with insanely crunchy croutons and a fresh, tangy pasta that we thought was under‑seasoned until we remembered we have Indian tastebuds and not everything needs to be chilli‑level 9000.
We ended the night with a sleepy wander around town, finally in Cyprus and officially on holiday.
Day 2 – Larnaca Mornings, Ayia Napa Sunsets
After a solid night’s sleep, we checked out and headed straight to the cutest brunch spot: Edem’s Yard, fully decked out in Halloween decorations. They were super flexible about making things vegetarian. We ordered savoury brioche sandwiches, matcha latte and Cypriot coffee – all excellent. Learned that restaurants don’t usually serve tap water, and while tap water isn’t exactly dangerous, it’s “not recommended,” so we joined Team Big Bottled Water.
Mini Larnaca sightseeing:
- Church of Saint Lazarus – one of the most peaceful churches I’ve ever been in.
- You can visit the Tomb of Saint Lazarus and the beautiful iconostasis, just remember to cover knees and shoulders (they have wrap‑arounds at the entrance).
- Quick Guinness at Blooms by the beach, because who doesn’t love a good stout across continents.
We wandered through Larnaka Municipal Market, mentally bookmarking souvenirs, olive oil, wine and all the good stuff for our last day – we wanted to know the island a bit before shopping like we’d lived there for years.
Then it was time to drive an hour to Ayia Napa, check into Blue Harbour Boutique Apartments and sprint to Loukkos Tou Mandi Beach for sunset.
At the beach, we discovered:
- The water is crystal clear and very shallow – you can see fish swimming between your legs. Immediately, swimming goggles were on our shopping list.
- The rocks are sharp little ankle assassins. Water shoes instantly went from “optional” to “emergency purchase.”
Dinner & night stroll – Los Bandidos Mexican Restaurant: rude server, good food, absolutely unhinged portion sizes. We ordered like we do in Denmark (starter + 2 mains) and left with half our meal in a takeaway box and a lesson in Cypriot portion culture. Also learned that a glass of wine is actually a small bottle with two servings. Truly a blessed country.
Wrapped up with a purchase of water bottles, swimming goggles, water shoes and a walk past the Ayia Napa Monument, ready for Halloween eve.
Day 3 – Our First Dive, Beach Hopping and Halloween Madness
We started with a light buffet breakfast and then walked to Ocean View Diving, where we had our first ever scuba experience booked to MUSAN, the underwater sculpture museum.
Scuba at MUSAN:
- Short training session, then geared up like awkward turtles in the parking lot.
- Walking to the beach in full gear felt like leg day at the gym plus a weighted vest challenge.
- The instructor was… let’s say “efficient,” especially when I struggled with instructions. Apparently, “learning curve” is not a recognised concept underwater.
It took a while, plus hand‑holding (literally) from the instructor, but once I relaxed, it was pure magic. The sculptures + weightlessness + strange light made it feel like visiting another planet where breathing is a group project.
For the post‑dive celebration, we went to Vala Beach Club at Latchi Adams Beach for lunch and beers. Crispy halloumi bars and Zucchini bites that were crunchy, juicy and weirdly reminiscent of dahi kebabs.
Then a lazy afternoon at Nissi Beach – more crystal‑clear water, more rocks, more reminders that water shoes are life. Followed by a drive to Fig Tree Beach in Protaras, our first proper sandy beach. Sunset swim, quick paid shower to get rid of sand, then into town.
Dinner and a show in Protaras:
- Traditional Cypriot Greek food with huge portions.
- The cocktails absolutely stole the show – creative, balanced and way too drinkable.
- Dessert at Patisserie Amelie, where the lemon tart became a core memory.
Magic Dancing Waters Live Show: lights, fountains, kids losing their minds with joy. It gets cold with all that water in October, so layer up. Did we love it? Not quite our vibe, but good to try once.
Halloween night out:
- Drove back to Ayia Napa to park the car, so my husband could finally celebrate properly.
- Ambassaden Bar for warm‑up drinks and music. The music was good, and the dance floor quickly got crowded.
- Finished the night at Pirates Inn, which was covered in Halloween décor full of floating neon skeletons and cobwebs.
We danced like we were 10 years younger and 100% fitter, then staggered back to the hotel happily destroyed.
Day 4 – Sculpture Parks, Sea Caves and the Perfect Slow Day
After the chaos of the previous day, we leaned into a slower morning, complete with breakfast and mimosas, because balance.
Ayia Napa Sculpture Park:
- Huge open space filled with sculptures from artists around the world.
- Mythological heroes, creatures, abstract stuff – all with a killer sea view.
- Cross the small bridge to reach the cactus park for bonus desert drama.
Hydration is absolutely key here; there’s very little shade and the heat doesn’t care that it’s October.
Coastal viewpoints:
- Bridge of Love.
- Blue Lagoon and Cape Cavo Greco.
- Kamara Tou Koraka.
- Agioi Anargyroi Chapel and Cave.
We just drove, hopped out, admired the views, took photos and moved on like very curious goldfish. We finished with a swim at the sea caves, watching schools of fish and corals as the sun went down.
Entering the water from land is awkward and not for the faint‑ankled, so if your main goal is swimming, a boat tour is probably the smarter move.
Dinner at Davinci Napiana:
- One of our favourite meals in Ayia Napa.
- Salad, pizza and pasta – all incredibly fresh.
The fig and strawberry salad still lives rent‑free in our minds, and the ravioli tasted as if it had been made, like, five minutes earlier. Paired with a medium dry red wine and the smug satisfaction of having actually packed our bags before midnight.
If we could redo this day:
We would definitely go for a relaxed boat tour around Blue Lagoon and Cape Greco in the afternoon after the sculpture park and then end the day at sea caves. Live and learn.
Day 5 – From Party Coast to Divided Capital to Mountain Town
We left Ayia Napa early, aiming for Nicosia, Europe’s only actively divided capital. Sounds intense; feels more like walking through a very complicated history book.
Nicosia basics:
- The city is split between the Republic of Cyprus and the Turkish‑controlled north, with walls, wire and checkpoints.
- Crossing on foot via Ledra Street is simple: passport + visa checks from both sides, with a UN‑controlled no‑man’s land in between.
We didn’t cross this time – too much to see, too little time.
In the city, we:
- Wandered by St John’s Cathedral, the Venetian walls, Liberty Monument and Famagusta Gate.
- Read up on Cyprus’ history: Ottomans, British rule, the 1974 invasion and the island’s ongoing division.
At Hamam Omerye, I went in knowing almost nothing and came out a new human. Steam, foam, a scrub so thorough it felt like they removed three years of life choices from my skin, and the minty smell of shampoo.
Obviously followed by a massage because we’re Indian and that’s how spa logic works. Finished with tea, olive bread and cheese, because self‑care is a full‑contact sport.
Coffee and cake at Pieto on Ledra Street: cosy, beautiful, with earthy, low‑acid Cypriot coffee that converted this chai person for the evening. Carrot cake was soft, spongy along with the apple tart were just the right amount of indulgent.
Evening drive to Latchi:
- We checked into Latsi Escape Hotel and Suites.
- Dinner at Wok & Walk Asian Fusion in Polis: bao, noodles and sushi. Good food, but the portions felt small by Cyprus standards and the value didn’t quite match our now inflated expectations.
Day 6 – Paphos (Pafos) and a Birthday Feast in the Mountains
We dedicated this day to UNESCO World Heritage sites in Paphos: Nea Paphos and Tombs of the Kings.
Nea Paphos:
- Once a major Hellenistic‑Roman capital, known as a centre of the cult of Aphrodite.
- You see an agora, Odeon, early Christian basilicas and several villas with intricate mosaics (House of Dionysos, Aion, Theseus, Orpheus).
It really shows how the city moved from pagan to Christian while still flexing wealth and taste.
Tombs of the Kings:
- Massive necropolis used from the late 4th century BC to late Roman times.
- No actual kings buried here – the name comes from how grand the tombs are.
- Mostly belonged to elite officials and aristocrats and suffered centuries of looting and reuse.
- Many tombs are laid out like houses with courtyards and rooms, mirroring the homes of the living and Hellenistic–Egyptian funerary ideas.
Practical side:
- Free parking near both Nea Paphos and Tombs of the Kings.
- We walked 7–9 km and spent about five hours between the two sites.
Sugar loading at E Cosi Gelateria first (waffle, affogato and blood orange gelato) was absolutely the right tactical decision.
Birthday dinner at o Linós:
- A tiny, reservation‑only spot in the mountains serving home‑cooked vegan Cypriot/Greek mezze.
- Our host, Lyndsey, explained every dish, where it came from and casually mentioned that many ingredients were from her own garden.
- The food was generous, delicious and beautifully thought out – we left with a lot of leftovers and halve a bottle of bubbles.
It felt less like a restaurant and more like being invited to a very well‑hosted dinner.
Day 7 – Gorges, Shipwrecks and Almost Blue Lagoon
For my husband’s birthday, we thought, “You know what screams celebration? Sweating through a gorge.” So off we went to Avakas Gorge.
Avakas Gorge:
- The drive in is steep and over rock‑filled terrain; the road gave bigger danger energy than the hike itself.
- We chickened out of driving all the way and parked earlier, walking the rest.
- We did the short route to the canyon section, perfect for beginners.
Shoes that can handle getting wet are a must – you’ll be crossing streams. Inside the gorge it cools down, the rock walls close in and it feels like nature’s version of a cathedral, complete with a massive boulder stuck overhead to remind you who’s boss.
Next stop: Edro III Shipwreck:
- A ship that ran aground in 2011, now sitting dramatically tilted just off the shore.
- Great quick photo stop and a bit of maritime drama to break up the day.
Blue Lagoon plan (that failed gracefully):
We headed towards the Blue Lagoon near the Baths of Aphrodite, only to realise driving all the way in wasn’t realistic for our car (or sanity). Our options were: wait for a jeep tour or hike a chunk of it, neither of which fit with our schedule. So we pivoted, grabbed our swim stuff and went to the Green Lagoon instead.
Green Lagoon:
- Snorkelling, relaxed vibes, underwater life and a shack that sold us well‑earned beers.
- Not the original plan, but still a perfect way to spend the afternoon.
Dinner at Noma Latchi:
- Contemporary restaurant by the beach.
- The cauliflower steak and creamy risotto were both excellent, and the cocktails were creative without being ridiculous.
- A nice, slightly fancier end to a packed birthday.
Day 8 – Turtles, Pebble Beaches and Peak Relaxation
We started with a light breakfast, because we had a three‑hour snorkelling trip ahead at Lara Bay to look for loggerhead turtles and try sea scooters.
Snorkelling with turtles:
- Pick‑up from outside Tombs of the Kings, then a briefing on safety and how to use the scooter.
- Our guides reminded us not to be brave (translation: stupid) and to take noodles for support, because 1.5 hours in the water is no joke.
- We saw two huge turtles, always keeping a respectful distance while they ate and popped up for air.
- There were also corals and lots of fish, turning the whole experience into a dreamy, exhausting blur.
Lunch at Gabriels Tavern Kouklia:
- On the way to Petra tou Romiou we refuelled with vegetarian mezze.
- This felt like the everyday, homey cousin of last night’s gourmet mezze – simpler, lighter, and exactly what we needed in the middle of the day.
Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock):
- Take the narrow tunnel down from the parking lot next to the gift shop to reach the beach under the highway.
- It’s a pebble beach with no sunbeds or services, so bring your own supplies.
- The sea is as clear as ever, but there isn’t much marine life here compared with other spots.
We swam, sunbathed, and basically pretended we lived there until it got cold at sunset. We checked into Queens Bay Hotel in Paphos, jumped straight into the pool and let our muscles forgive us.
Day 9 – Troodos Villages, Waterfalls, Wine and Finally: Lace
We signed up for a Troodos Mountains group tour, which turned out to be the perfect break from planning and driving ourselves.
Lofou Village:
- Walk around stone houses, meet locals and taste traditional sweets.
- Coffee and dessert at a local café, including Cypriot coffee, which we were now fully on board with.
- Learned about local agriculture, forest fires and that Cyprus has PDO status for halloumi, which explains why it tastes like actual joy.
Millomeris Waterfall:
- Short, easy walk to a pretty, low‑key waterfall.
- Great photo spot, very chill, low drama after our recent canyons and gorges.
Wine tasting at Lion Spirits:
- Tasting that catered to a range of palates and included a hazelnut liqueur we fell a bit in love with.
Lunch and wandering in Omodos:
- We ditched the group to find a vegetarian‑friendly lunch and ended up at Stou Kir Yianni.
- Creamy, umami orzo and excellent wine selection.
- While exploring the village, I finally found a tablecloth made from Lefkara lace, and my husband picked up local olive oil. Quest completed.
Evening in Paphos:
- Back at the hotel, we sat by the pool to watch the sunset and find a salon in Larnaca for next day’s haircut.
- Dinner at Pizza Express because my husband had never been, I hadn’t been in ages, and Denmark has zero Pizza Express locations.
Utterly basic, utterly satisfying.
Day 10 – From Paphos to Larnaka for a Proper Goodbye
On our last day, we started with one final swim at Josi Bay, just below the hotel, followed by a big hotel breakfast to power us through the farewell tour.
Back to Larnaca:
We drove in with enough time to check into our hotel before heading to the salon. We try to get haircuts when we travel – partly because sea and chlorine are rude to hair, partly because it feels like a mini reset before going back to normal life.
Sunset cruise:
- We booked a sunset cruise to say goodbye to Cyprus in dramatically appropriate fashion.
- They took us along the coast all the way towards the airport, where planes flew insanely low above our heads.
- Our hostess taught us some local dance moves, and we danced our way back to port feeling like main characters in a budget music video.
Final coffee and dinner:
We stopped at a local coffee shop to buy ground coffee to take home, because apparently we now collect beans and lace instead of fridge magnets. Dinner at Cam On Asian Cantina: Halloumi Katsu bao buns and Pad Thai – both properly spicy and a great last hit of comfort food.
We ended the trip the way we started it: walking around town and talking about nothing and everything, but this time with a suitcase full of memories, snacks and slightly shorter hair.
If I were to tweak this itinerary
- Swap some of the sightseeing around Ayia Napa for a Blue Lagoon boat tour.
- Plan more full lazy beach day with no activities other than eating, napping and floating.
- Research Blue Lagoon near Baths of Aphrodite better so we can rent a 4×4 in advance, or take a boat tour.
- Rent a 4×4 till Avakas Gorge so we have more time on the trail and don’t have to worry about driving with a rental car not meant for off-roading.
- Bring water shoes on day one, not day two, and accept that in Cyprus, one main course is probably enough for two people.
But as it happened, it was the perfect mix of chaos, calm, culture, and carbs – exactly what we’d hoped for when we escaped Danish autumn for a Mediterranean “extended summer.”
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